No 5 The Film By Vanessa Friedman Photos

понедельник 29 октября

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What is happening to shoes? Specifically, what is happening to shoes on the runway? Enquiring minds want to know. Sitting at Stella McCartney’s show in February, a designer whose whole shtick is about girl-friendly dressing, was a terrifying experience. Those models tottered, their calves in tight, holding-on-for-dear-life knots of terror, as they attempted to navigate the floor in weird, towering, inward curving wedges.

Even the sylph-like Liya Kebede, who normally seems to glide through her runway appearances, crept along at a snails’ pace, presumably so she did not tumble down in an ignominious heap instead. At Jil Sander, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Zac Posen the story was the same: footwear that had become an abstraction, not a vehicle that would allow a woman to motor through life, but one that would chain her, complicate her life, render her.

That is not progress. It’s foot-binding in contemporary form.

There are two ways to look at this: one unintentional (these weird accessories are merely the extreme and unsuccessful version of the trend toward wedges and platforms, the footwear that gave women physical dominance with comfort) and one purposeful (designers, after empowering women through wedges and platforms, became uneasy and wanted to undermine the advances). What side you come down on depends on how much credit you give fashion for actually thinking about its responsibilities towards female actualisation, as opposed to what Frank Gehry building it just saw, or historical time period it was feeling particularly romantic about at that moment. Personally, I would like to give fashion the benefit of the doubt. Raf Simons and Stella McCartney do so much sartorially to liberate women, to make them look slick and strong through the cut of a jacket, the generosity of a collar and the absence of extraneous gewgaws, that I would like to think the shoes are simply a mistake, not a misanthropic gesture (I use Raf and Stella here simply as examples; they are not at all the sole offenders in this situation).

But something niggles. After all, presumably they are smart enough individuals and aware-enough brand managers to understand the mixed messages they are sending on their runways. If not, here is the wake-up call.

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Free the foot! About Believing fashion to be intrinsically political, from December 2007 through summer 2008 Nick Knight staged a multi-level film and essay project, encouraging creatives to use the medium of fashion to convey their political beliefs, agendas and thoughts. From the beginning of December 2007, the first stage of 'Political Fashion Films' invited visitors to SHOWstudio.com to submit a film of between 30 seconds and 3 minutes that articulated some kind of political point using fashion. Inkeeping with previous film seasons 'Moving Fashion' and 'Editing Fashion', in February 2008, this invitation was opened up to a wide selection of fashion industry, art world and celebrity figures, whose Political Fashion Films created to the same brief were broadcast on SHOWstudio.com one film per weekday, alongside essays exploring the themes and issues raised by this provocative subject matter.

Vanessa Friedman was named the fashion director and chief fashion critic for The New York Times in March 2014. In this role she leads global fashion coverage for both The New York Times and International New York Times. Before joining the paper, Ms. Friedman was the inaugural fashion editor of the Financial Times, beginning in 2003. Along with editing the Style pages and the Luxury360 vertical, she wrote a weekly column for the Saturday FT and created the FT's annual Business of Luxury conference.

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No 5 the film by vanessa friedman photos 2017

Previously, she was the fashion features director for InStyle UK, from 2000 to 2002. Before that she worked as a Fashion Correspondent for the FT, as an Arts Contributor at The Economist and was the European Editor at American Elle. In addition she contributed regularly to Vogue, The New Yorker, Vanity Fair and Entertainment Weekly. She is the author of 'Emilio Pucci' (Taschen) as well as an honorary professor at Glasgow-Caledonian University. She was the recipient of the 2012 Front Page Award for fashion writing, as well as the 2013 Fashion Monitor Journalist of the Year award.